No Reservations

Oddly enough, one of my favorite memories from this past summer's cross country road trip was sitting round the campfire reading aloud Anthony Bourdain's Medium Raw for both Wojc and I to enjoy. We had some internet/tv/phone withdrawals deep in the Smokey Mountains and what a replacement this was. If you haven't read Bourdain I suggest you run out and pick up Kitchen Confidential or Medium Raw now.  I adore his wit, foul mouth and to the point style...and I'm a vegetarian so that's saying something.
Now go build a campfire and start reading!

On an unrelated note, I really want to drape my future apartment with maps and globes. There's a reason I was a geography minor; I could stare at maps for hours on end.

I'm on a bus.

J and I woke early and hit the road after a 72 hour delay (mainly to watch the Ducks win the civil war) and drove straight through to Eugene.  The highway cutting over to I5 is so beautiful and changes season to season.  We made it to the train station early for me to buy my ticket and headed out to a Mexican market to get some of the best burritos I've had.  

After a saying by to my brother I awaited my chance to board the bus to Portland (where I will transfer to train to Seattle).  I watched a Japanese exchange student bid farewell to her host family and friends that ran up at the last minute and finally board the bus in tears.  Oh how I hate good byes.  I'm so thankful to be back on the west coast and spared the painful departures I endured these past years.  

Now I'm on the bus and in 7 hours I'll be reunited with Wojc and Seattle, the first city I fell in love with.  I'm getting more and more excited about possibly moving back to Seattle.  I lived there for about a year and  a half as an undergrad at the University of Washington.  I little piece of my soul turned dark the day I moved down to Eugene (dramatic much?) and the thought of heading back is getting more and more exciting.  

On another retrospective note, Eugene grows more and more appealing each year that passes.  As a student there, I liked it but I was a little more jaded; now, post New York? It seems like a liberal paradise. Either way, I'm excited to be heading off on adventure and I see really positive things in the coming month.  

Let It Shine/Cape Blanco Lighthouse

The Cape Blanco lighthouse was built in 1870 with a light run off of lard from the nearby pig farm.  It has endured 179 mph winds during the famous Columbus Day storm in the 60's and countless rainy days.  I can't even imagine what it was like to be one of the old lighthouse keepers staying up through the night to make sure the light stayed burning and hearing the howling winds that feel that much more eerie with the surrounding waves.  

My brother and I drove out there on a fairly mild day.  My dad Jack gives tours in the lighthouse and it's become a bit of a tradition to drive out and visit him when I'm back in Port Orford.  My dad is very suited for the job being a history buff and a talker.  He brings Annie dog out who fits in perfectly with the surroundings.

You climb up flights of narrow spiral stairs and are rewarded with a spectacular view of the furthest western point in the lower 48.  

The lens is intriguing, a gigantic series of magnifying glasses that rotates 24 hours a day, rain or shine.  The lens was shipped over from France 140 years ago.  The detail is intriguing and has almost no marks except for the a few spots that were marked by vandals in the early 1990's.

Such a beautiful spot, Cape Blanco is one of those places that I will never tire seeing.  There are no two days alike out on the rocky coast.

Bonus: Seeing little porcupines wandering happily, a beautiful campground right down the path, an amazing beach to walk on and a bounty of mushrooms in the fall.

Don't Fence Me In (or Affordable Road Tripping)

 In order to better serve my loyal blog readers, here is a more focused guide on my tips for road trips on the cheap.  My suggestions are definitely not suitable for everyone.  For someone who hates camping, my idea of a good road trip would be their own personal hell.
I grew up road tripping.  In fact, I'm a second generation road tripper.  Until I was born (youngest of three) my mom and dad (and then my sister and brother) lived a fairly nomadic lifestyle traveling around the country and living in Arizona, Michigan, California and more.  They were adventurers, traveling so often while homeschooling their kids.  When I was born, we settled for good in Oregon but continued to take camping trips ever summer.  I have such fond memories driving for hours on end with my mom and brother to get to Glacier National Park, the Tetons and other wild spots.  My family was not well off, but what we lacked financially we more than made up with thrift, adventure and love of travel.  For those of you not making the big bucks or merely looking for adventure, I recommend shutting yourself in a small car with your loved ones, driving for days and seeing what happens.

Tips for Road Trips

1.  Sell off most of your belongings for gas money.  Ok, so that might not be so wise for everyone, but I sold my couch, tv and odds and ends on craigslist.  This furniture money paid for fuel from New York to Oregon in a pick up truck so I'm guessing it was worth it. Bonus: limited belongings = lighter travel.

2.  Bring as much food from home that you can.  As tempting as eating out every meal can be, even the cheapest fast food begins to take its toll on your bank account.  Invest in some bags of ice, a cooler and shop along the way.  Get a cheap camp stove and cook your food.  Besides, everyone knows that food tastes better when cooked outside.  My mom is queen of campsite cooking with creative meals like campsite nachos.

3.  Camp.  I can't emphasize enough how much money I have saved by choosing a sleeping bag over an uncomfortable hotel bed.  This summer's cross country road trip would not have been feasible had I stayed in hotels along the way.  I'm proud to say that during a three week trip, Wojc and I only splurged on one hotel room in Santa Fe, NM due to Wojc getting sick.

4. Skip the museums, tours, tourist traps that cost money.  Ok, I'm sure some of you are cringing, but unless you are desperate to head into a city to see a Renoir (which you could always find a free day anyway), I suggest bypassing these and heading off the beaten path where most of the attractions and historical sites are free.  Let's be real, I'm talking about a road trip on a shoestring budge, this is not the time for galleries.  You'll be pleasantly surprised by all there is out there.  Natural bridges, hikes, historical museums at state parks, city centers, and more.

5.  Make use of "free" internet. When you need to fire up your lap top and blog, get directions and whatever, pull up to the nearest hotel/convention center/hardware store and make it quick.

6.  Unless you are on a random "go where ever the wind takes you" type of trip, then try to stick to a fairly direct route. I'm the first to suggest going off the beaten track, but only to a certain extent.  If you back track, go in circles and get lost often you are going to pay way more than necessary at the gas pump.

These are just a few of the endless ways to save on road trips.  If it weren't for these tips, I would travel way less frequently.  Some would rather travel once a year but live it up at a nice hotel and meals out, others (like myself) would rather camp, hike, prepare our food and shower less frequently all in the name of regular (and exciting!) travel.
Finally, with this type of trip you need to have a spirit of adventure and be ready for the unexpected.  You are going to have a few upsets and it's best to know that going in.  Don't get discouraged after a rainy night or a cold.  Keep on treking!

rainy Oklahoma days

post-rainy days.

How hard to realize that every camp of men or beast has this glorious starry firmament for a roof!  In such places standing alone on the mountain-top it is easy to realize that whatever special nests we make - leaves and moss like the marmots and birds, or tents or piled stone - we all dwell in a house of one room - the world with the firmament for its roof - and are sailing the celestial spaces without leaving any track.  ~John Muir

Travel Tips For The Cheapskate

If you knew anything about me, you'd probably know I'm more than qualified to give advice on cheap travel. In order to make travel possible on a small income (or no income in my current state) I have learned to travel completely bare bones and still have a memorable time, probably more so than a plush resort vacation.  Keep in mind, this is coming from someone who spent two months traveling Europe as a broke college student spending only $2000 (including plane and train tickets). And so, without further ado, the list.

(disclaimer: it's a fairly disjointed list covering domestic and international travel, expect more specific advice shortly)

• Volunteer to get bumped on a flight and earn a free ticket.  I've only bought two of my past four round trip cross country flights all thanks to volunteering to be bumped on full flights when I heard the gate attendants ask for volunteers.  Bonus: Onetime I was upgraded to first class and booked on a flight that got me to La Guardia earlier than my previously planned trip.  Let's face it, sometimes it's worth calling in sick, but shhh don't tell my old bosses.

• Don't check bags. It's a money (and time) suck. Don't do it if at all possible.  I wear my coat and heavy boots while flying just to make a carry-on possible.

• Bring food from home. Airport food is expensive (and not so tasty)!! Swallow your pride and bust out that homemade burrito.  On long travel days, I've been known to pack two full meals plus snacks. 

• If overseas, try to stay in "private rooms".  This is area specific and not an option in many countries.  However, when I was traveling throughout the former Yugoslavia, there were usually a group of people waiting at bus stations offering a room to rent.  This may sound slightly sketchy, but I've yet to have a bad experience.  Private rooms are what they sound like. Private, but in or near the family house. I stayed in a great little room in Lake Ohrid, Macedonia. It was the equivalent of $4 a night complete with a mini kitchen, private bathroom and cute little bedroom.  and bonus: a lively owner who worshiped George W. Bush. Definitely made for some interesting discussion. In summary: seek out rooms, or at least stick to hostels.

 Church of St. John in Lake Ohrid

• Camp. I grew up camping with my family and have very fond memories of week long camp outs along the west coast.  Camping is affordable at less than $20 a campsite (except for California which is a whopping $35 a night) and one of my favorite pastimes.  Even when I was working, I had a hard time paying for hotels.  It seems like such a waste to me to spend $50+ on a adequate room. Why not save that money, camp and travel for a few extra days?  Of course, camping can scare some people off, I'll post in more detail in a later post.

show me the hotel restaurant that beats this

• Network.  Do you know someone who knows someone who went to school with someone in Tennessee? Well call 'em up and hope for some hospitality.  I quickly learned to hide my awkwardness when camping in an almost-stranger's living room.  These situations usually lead to the best adventures and best stories to tell.  Just remember to return the favor next time your friend's brother's girlfriend is traveling thru.

• Accept the generosity of strangers (within reason).  I'm more wary than many travels and most likely would not stay at the house (or yard) of a stranger by myself.  However, on my recent cross-country road trip I was traveling with my boyfriend which opened up new options.  In Chattanooga we met a middle aged woman outside a restaurant, chatted for some time and quickly found ourselves accepting the invitation to stay a night in her spare room (which turned into a spare floor to ourselves) and waking up to a lovely Tennessee morning.

So there you have it, a very short list of the many ways to save on travel.  I have so many other things I do in life to allow for travel, what are yours?

Get Your Kicks

A few days ago I visited an old mining town on the historic Route 66 called Oatman.  It's about an hour and a half drive north of Havasu through a winding two-lane road in the desert hills.  Wojc and I drove an hour or so before dusk which in the desert is a magical time with light reflecting off the red desert land.
Oatman is one of a kind.  It's tiny with a few old historic storefronts selling tourist kitsch and carrots for the burros.  Oatman began as a tent camp in 1915 after two prospectors struck a $10 million gold find.  It thrived and grew to 3,500 people in just a year.  Now it only has a little over a 100 people.  When Oatman was a gold mining town the miners used burros for work.  After the mines shut down in the 40's, the burros were allowed to wander freely and to this day they are protected by the Department of the Interior.

They're cute little rascals and kind of like dogs following you down the street in hopes of a treat.  The little white burro above, while adorable in all its unicorn-esque glory, was pretty pitiful and made me feel slightly sad at the state of their donkey lives. They seemed broken, like they lost their will to live and these wild animals now seem to rely on tourists for carrot handouts.  Seriousness aside, this little village is spectacularly located atop a hill with golden hues all around.  It's kind of surreal to walk through the streets crowded with burros set amongst such a stunning setting.  

The sign above says all that needs to be said about the local residents of Oatman and most of the Arizonan population for that matter.

Since this town exists solely based on tourism, there is plenty of entertainment including "shoot-out" reenactments, horse riding and trailers for those of us who lost touch with our country beginnings.

Next time I have company in Havasu, an Oatman excursion is a must.  It's like walking back in time, which I think all of us could use every now and then.

Stripping pays well

As I mentioned yesterday, Wojc and I drove to Vegas to pick up his dad R from the airport.  We decided to make a day of it and soon we were enjoying a surprisingly vegetarian friendly buffet at the Bellagio.  We ate more than a little too much, there was an all you can eat bakery after all.

We headed out on a walking tour and made our way past our good friends Donny and Marie.

We strolled around Caesar's Palace that is ginourmous and kind of like a tacky Rome/5th Avenue combo.  There were a lot of shops and a lot of kitsch but overall it's still pretty cool to see.  I love the ceilings at the Forum Shops, it sets and atmosphere of dusk in Rome. 

Having visited Rome several years ago, a faux-Trevi fountain just doesn't cut it so I decided to get over my stuck up "well I've been to the real Roman Forum" mentality and just enjoy Vegas for what it offers: gluttony and tacky.
We stuck around to see the hourly show at one of the fountains and the cheesiness was in full effect.  However, I must make a confession, I get really into touristy cheesy things so this was right up my alley.

We wandered some more and checked out some miniature motorcycles, I was with two avid Ducati and BMW fiends after all.  Wojc and R think I should learn to ride a bike and then push this blog in a whole new direction documenting my life on a bike.  Sounds good to me, now who's supplying the motorcycle?
Beyond the glitz and glam and extravagance, parts of Vegas really are beautiful.

In other Vegas news, apparently there are over 1,000 people living in the tunnels under the city.  The shocking article can be found here. 

Day In The Life: Arizona Edition

My days have been slightly open in the past couple of months.  Wait, make that four months since I quit my job at a non-profit in New York.  I worked at that job in social services for two years with a daily commute of two hours.  Let's just say I was a little exhausted day in and day out.  It was my goal when I left my job, and New York for that matter, to decompress and really relax like we did as children in the summer.  I must say, I've been pretty successful in my goal.  

Arizona, more specifically Lake Havasu, has been a home base for me and my boyfriend thanks to a spare vacation home.  When in Havasu a typical day involves walks around the neighborhood.

 Inspecting the local wildlife

Test driving boats on the lake.

Yoga.

Killing two birds with one stone: swimming and reading

Exploring the surrounding hills.

Most importantly: watching the evening sunset.

I don't mean to brag too much but I'm sure it comes across this way.  While I love the area and can't get enough of the desert fall, I am starting to miss getting up every morning for work, dressing up and interacting with all different people for a common cause.  Don't get me wrong, there are downs to unemployment and too much spare time, I'm just trying to make the most of everyday.  

Halloween

I wasn't really feeling the urge to dress up on Halloween but enjoyed the day nonetheless.  To stay "festive" Wojc and I decided to enjoy the beautiful day outside and found a hike to a bat cave.  This seemed promising so we headed to the foothills just east of Lake Havasu in the morning. There was no trail and the directions I found online to the bat cave were very vague including, "you will pass a dirt road and a grave marker", none of which we saw.

Heading out on our quest for bats

As we hiked in the direction we assumed was north we ran into an ATVer and he directed us in a different direction.  Following increasingly vague directions to "follow the wash to the right of the rock peak" ended with no bat cave in site.

We decided to persevere and were not disappointed.  We hiked through the washes (dried out stream bed) and summited a rocky peak. The view was the best I've seen in Havasu.

summit

desert oasis

There was not a breath of wind, no traffic noise, no airplanes overhead.  Complete stillness.  There's such an invigorating atmosphere in the desert.  The wide open space unencumbered by buildings, mountains and trees adds a lightness to the air and a feeling of peace and tranquility.  I've always loved wide open spaces, it eases my feelings of claustrophobia.

I will be heading back north to Oregon within a couple weeks and while I do love that state, leaving Arizona in the Fall is like saying good bye to a dear friend.